23 October 2022

Restoring an NAD 6340 cassette deck



When it comes to cassette decks one does not immediately think of NAD, right? Technological development, especially at the frenetic pace of the late 1970s and early 1980s, normally was the domain of the large, mostly Japanese, manufacturers. And yet, New Acoustic Dimension has had its share of firsts, such as the 6150C pioneering Dolby C in 1981.

In the period 1987-1989 NAD launched a triumvirate that always remained somewhat unique, these being the only decks ever that combined the Bang & Olufsen-invented Dolby HX Pro with Tandberg's Dyneq in a bid to solve one of cassette's most obvious problems: treble saturation. The low speed and high noise of cassette demands that treble be 'forced' onto the tape with aggressive record equalising boost. This pushes the treble signal close to, and over, the tape's limit, leading to self-erasure and thus squashed treble dynamics, a problem that is less severe at higher speeds such as 9.5 and 19 cm/s. Further, treble saturation grows worse with increased bias strength. Given that the actual bias applied to the tape is the sum of the bias signal and the high-frequency part of the music signal itself, it figures that the saturation level jumps up and down with the music, being the worst when this has the most negative effect. HX Pro sought to solve this, varying the bias signal inverse proportionally with the music signal, thereby keeping actual bias (more or less) constant.

Accompanying treble saturation is intermodulation distortion: strong treble applied to a tape in its saturation region generates sum and difference components, which materialise as anharmonic distortion in the midrange, muddling the sound. Tandberg Dyneq attacked this problem by wilfully reducing recording-time treble boost in the presence of treble peaks. True, this seems counter-productive in that it diminishes the level of the treble being laid down on tape, but at least intermodulation distortion is avoided.

HX Pro and Dyneq were combined in the NAD 6300 Monitor, 6100 Monitor, and 6340 decks. The 6300 was a top-of-the-line product, metal-cased, with three heads and the Sankyo double-capstan direct-drive mechanism famous from decks such as the Nakamichi CR-4/5/7, BX-300, and Onkyo TA-2070. The 6100 was a 6300-lookalike (but made from plastic), with a much simpler two-motor belt-drive transport, and two heads. The 6340 was essentially the same deck as the 6100, but in a more traditional NAD livery, with mechanical counter, and without remote control. Several versions of the 6100/6340 decks exist, assembled in Malaysia, Taiwan (ROC) or China (PRC). All of them have external bias control, the 'Car' dynamics compressor, as well as NAD's 'Play Trim' equaliser. The latter is a treble control situated before the Dolby decoder, helping reduce Dolby mistracking in case of worn tapes and/or azimuth incompatibility; Play Trim was also licensed to Yamaha and Uher.



Some people on forums like http://www.tapeheads.net attribute near-magical properties to these three NADs, enough to give them a try. I made my first acquaintance in medio-2018, with a 6100 Monitor, near-mint and complete with its remote control. I wanted to evaluate it specifically as a player for digitising a couple of 'difficult' Dolby C cassettes, including an XLI-S peaking at +14dB(!). After a transport service, mounting a generic new drive belt, and full realignment I was not overwhelmed: metal tape MOL was low, the replay frequency response showed a shelved-down treble (even with Play Trim at its maximum), and sound was slightly phasey and insubstantial. Ultimately a Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1 sounded quite a bit better on those tapes, and the 6100 was quickly sold.

Wondering what all the fuzz was about I lost interest in this family. Until in summer 2022 a defective 6340 crossed my path. For some reason I picked it up, paused my other restoration project (a nice Technics SL-7), and got to work.

The minimalistic, cheap, yet efficient mechanism was in disarray and partial disassembly due to the former owner's  failed attempt at belt replacement. But luckily the microswitch hidden behind the head bridge raising wheel  was still whole, even if slightly bent. The transport was taken apart, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled with a new belt (from https://www.electro-andijk.nl). Replacing the belt involves splitting the mechanism and doing battle with a very finicky spring that has to grab a white lever (see first photo below), then wrap around its post and grab the backplate (second photo). Not fun. You also have to ensure that the control cam wheel is positioned correctly and goes through the right moves when the solenoid is activated: you can find (someone else's) movie of this here, you may want to look at it in slow motion. (Some people advocate not opening the mechanism at all, but rather slipping the belt between the back plate and the flywheel. This of course brings the risk of soiling the new belt with grease. Beware.) The microswitch was straightened out. I also deactivated the tape sensor switch, so that the deck could be operated without cassette, handy for test and debug. Speaking about ... the 6340 is not very friendly on the workbench: no headphone output, and a bathtub construction, i.e. without direct access to the board's solder side.







 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At this stage the mechanism worked, more or less, but winding was sloooow, and many tapes could not be played to their end. Continuing the service with the front-side of the transport it emerged that the reel hubs were as good as glued to their axles by dried-up grease. The pinch roller had visible scratches around its circumference and had to be replaced. (Remarkably that 6100 I once had suffered from exactly the same problem.) I also added a suppression capacitor to the reel motor, something that is normally present in every deck. After this it held speed well, but wow&flutter was a highish 0.09% WRMS. Spectral analysis in the T-100 app revealed this to be made up of mostly deep wow and high-frequency flutter, both with little direct audibility, even on piano music. Closer inspection of the roller revealed it had a bit of a wobble, i.e. eccentricity. A fresh roller from https://fixyouraudio.com/ cured this, bringing long-term averaged W&F down to less than 0.07% WRMS, a fine result for this simple mechanism.




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My China-made 6340 has a (Canon?) HAJCH4544 permalloy head, the same as my, also Chinese, 6100 Monitor. It is known that some 6340s came with a different head, and so may sound different. The head needed nothing more than a gentle cleaning to look presentable again, without any visible wear.




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tracing the Hanspeter Roth 70us 31.5Hz to 18kHz playback  cassette, after taking a lot of care to adjust azimuth to it, showed the response to be essentially flat to the treble, with less than 1dB of channel imbalance, and with a little bit of high treble loss in the right channel. All in all a much better result than my 6100 Monitor ever managed.



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These decks have an extra-ordinary amount of trimmers for adjusting replay and, specifically, recording, almost on a par with Nakamichi. After a couple of hours patiently adjusting I got very flat and extended curves on all three tape types, i.e. Maxell UR 1994, Maxell SXII 1991 (close to TDK SA and the post-1987 IEC 2 norm), and That's MRX-Pro 1986. At 20dB below Dolby level the -3dB treble limits were resp. 18kHz, 19kHz, and beyond 20kHz for the three tape types. At 0dB, Dolby level, the responses were nothing special, except for metal tape.

(When working on 2-head decks I only plot the response above 200Hz, due to the unwillingness of the Audiotester software to synchronise easily to LF signals. Here I took the effort to look at bass once, with SXII, see bottom graph.)







As there is only one trimmer set for record level this was set for type I, i.e. UR, as this type is the most plausible to be used with Dolby. Still, the other tape types landed within +/-0.5dB from this setting, which is perfectly acceptable.

Even with these small level errors Dolby encoding/decoding is not very accurate, despite the use of the excellent Sony CX20188 chip. Moreover, a leaked 30kHz component from my sound card (replaced since with a cleaner one) totally threw off Dolby C, unless the MPX filter was engaged. No other deck here responded that bad to these signals. Then again, let's not forget that this is an entirely artificial test regime, pushing Dolby in a worst case scenario that bears no resemblance to actual music!





Maximum Output Level, i.e. the level at which a 400Hz tone has 3% third harmonic distortion, was respectively 4.5dB, 4.0dB, and 5.0dB: an excellent result, especially for a two header, and again superior to my NAD 6100. With SXII bias noise is -54dB or -58.5dB(A). With the +4.0dB MOL this yields a dynamic range of 62.5dB.

Sonically this deck is clean, lithe, with fair dynamics and a remarkable lack of grunge. Yet, despite the reasonable MOL measurements it does not really like to be pushed hard. Still, overall a surprisingly nice deck, capable of fine results with a minimum of fuzz. But given the difference with that 6100 Monitor I once had, it seems you have to be lucky enough to get a good one ... and this is a good one!














 
 
 
 
 




21 February 2022

Restoring and modifying an Onkyo TA-2060 cassette deck

 


Cassette mechanisms are a specialty component. It is not surprising that in the late 1970s the large consumer electronics manufacturers started outsourcing their mechanisms from expert OEMs that themselves remained in the shadows.

In 1981 Onkyo's new top-of-the-line deck TA-2070 debuted with a double-capstan brushless direct-drive transport made by Sankyo Seiki. This transport and its later derivatives would garner some fame: by 1982 it got picked up by none other than Nakamichi, replacing the legendary 'classic' Nak mechanism. Today the Sankyos are known as high-quality, not without flaws and problems, but generally easily and reliably to repair and maintain.

I always wondered what came before the TA-2070, before 1981? Surely the Sankyo mechanism did not emerge perfectly-formed onto the scene, and must have had an ancestor? Something to bridge between the relatively crude transport of Sankyo's own late 70s STD-3000 three-headed deck and the (seemingly) svelte TA-2070.

Earlier Onkyo's top position was taken by the TA-2080, a typical late-seventies mega-deck: bulky, complex, proprietary. Then 1980 saw the arrival of the sexy two-head TA-2050, and somewhat later the three-head TA-2060, both with the same single-capstan direct-drive mechanism. A mechanism almost as simple as possible: the direct-drive capstan motor, a reel motor with idler connection to the hubs, a single large solenoid for raising the head bridge via a yoke. Reel braking is done via electromagnetical brakes in both hubs, the supply-side brake also being used to generate back tension. This mechanism abolished a great deal of mechanical parts in favour of electronic control. This should have been a huge success (read on), but only a few Onkyos used this particular configuration before it disappeared again. (That other early adopter, 1981's Sansui D-350M, reverted to belt-generated back tension and mechanical brakes actuated by a second solenoid. Later Sankyo mechanisms followed this scheme, ultimately replacing the control solenoids with the cam motor that is by now infamous for its dead-spot problems.)




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The only extra in the TA-2060 is a belt connection from the supply hub to a rotating magnet and Hall sensor. These are used as a motion detector, and not for back tension as the picture may lead you to believe. This detector controls the autostop regime, and also provides speed feedback to the back tension regulator sitting on a circuit board behind the mechanism. 

The direct drive motor is a brushed type of large dimensions, hidden in a rubber sock for vibration and noise control. In use it emits a faint hum. This motor can be taken apart for servicing relatively easily.

Transport maintenance

After the reconstruction of my mechanism it got plagued with violent speed instabilities. This was caused by an intermittent short between the motor control PCB and the bottom-left post of the mechanism. I painted the top of that post red (you can see it in above picture) for improved isolation. 

Reel drive is via the usual rubber idler wheel. I replaced it with a slightly-sanded o-ring of similar dimensions.

 


After servicing wow& flutter initially looked very promising, being low both at the beginning and the end of the tape. It was a major disappointment then when a full 45 minute run (see above, blue curve) saw W&F grow chaotically towards the end, with an unacceptable performance in the second half of the tape. 

From my first quick trials I knew that W&F quickly measured at the end of the tape was pretty good, so something strange was going on. I let the deck rest for a few hours, and then made a second run with the same cassette, now starting half-way the tape. And see, wow& flutter was significantly lower (orange curve)!

Spectral analysis of the raw signal of the speed tape showed a dramatic broadening of the signal peak with progressing time, indicating severe drift and very low-frequency wow (blue: start of tape; pink: end of tape). Music would probably be unlistenable!


After more experiments (not that many: there is only so much one can try with such a simple mechanism) I concluded that back tension got instable with time, possibly the electromechanical brake warming up?

Despondently I walked away from this problem and finished the rest of the work. After final reassembly of the deck I ran another speed test, and what happened?


A nice average wow&flutter of 0.041% WRMS, only slowly rising with time. And this result was perfectly repeatable. So what happened?

Here is my theory: The Onkyo is not very service friendly. The mechanism has connectors on its control and supply cables, but the head cables are soldered or wirewrapped at both ends. Operating the mechanism outside of the deck is only possible by laying it on its back on a cushion of bubblewrap on top of the main board. I am assuming now that this horizontal orientation messed with the operation of the electromagnetic brake. Perhaps something in the reel hub produced excess stick-slip friction with rising temperature ...

Electronics

While a basic three head deck the 2060 has two interesting features. Firstly, it is one of the rare decks equipped with Dolby HX, the original treble headroom expander (more on that anon). And secondly it has Onkyo's 'AccuBias' assisted bias adjustment scheme. The latter alternatingly records tones at 333Hz and 10kHz while the user tweaks the fine bias knob on the front, attempting to make the level of both tones equal as indicated on the needle meters. The test tone oscillators output triangle signals, and not sines. That is somewhat curious, but it seems to work well enough ...
 
Once the transport was running reliably I could try a first few record/play frequency sweeps for Maxell UR 1994 and SXII 1991 (nearly a TDK SA clone):
 

As you see these curves are remarkably flat and well-extended, with the little channel imbalance boding well for head health. At 0dB (Dolby level, 218nWb/m) the loss is 5 to 6dB at 10kHz. This is not bad at all, perhaps typical for the late 1970, but many later decks performed much better in this respect. It might well be that the designers were cavalier about treble saturation, after all they had ... Dolby HX.

However, against the sublime -20dB rec/play frequency curves the playback-only response was disappointing (Hanspeter Roth 30Hz to 18kHz frequency burst cassette, after careful azimuth alignment):


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A smoothly down-tilted response, levelling out above 6kHz. That 18kHz was reached without severe roll-off indicated fine alignment and no severe head wear. However, the total deviation being 4dB between bass and treble must be very audible. And indeed, playing prerecordeds  or cassettes made on my Naks the high treble was present, but subdued, and the overall sonic picture was rather lethargic. I've said it before and will repeat it again: people keep on nagging about Nakamichi's presumed violation of the cassette replay standards (too much treble), but many other manufacturers did the same but in the opposite direction (too little treble), in a bid for artificially-enhanced signal-to-noise figures and brand lock-in.

With those admirably flat rec/play responses and a down-tilted playback response it has to follow that the record-response would be severely up-tilted. Recording white noise on the Onkyo and playing it back on the BX-300 confirmed this: blue/red Onkyo playback; green/pink Nakamichi playback.


Conclusion: the TA-2060 has by design a low compatibility with other machines and with commercially recorded cassettes. 

What is needed is an upward shelf in the playback chain, and a downward shelf in the recording chain. Luckily both proved very easy to implement. Contrary to most decks the Onkyo has an extra single-transistor gain stage between the replay amplifier and the Dolby decoder: Q105. Putting an RC network in its feedback tail provided the required treble-boosting shelf. A passive RC network in front of the recording amplifier did almost exactly the opposite, netting again a flat response. Both networks use the same component values, 5n6 and 10k, but that is entirely a coincidence.











 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not only does this make the deck more compatible, it also helps with its record frequency responses. Remember the relatively high loss due to treble saturation? The new record equaliser drives less treble onto the tape, thus there is less saturation. The deficit is made up in playback. Of course there is a price to pay: playback noise. More on that later.


The TA-2060 has one set of internal bias settings and record level settings, and no external record level adjust: some choices were to be made.

I set the internal alignment for Maxell SXII 1991. Maxell UR 1994, after adjustment with AccuBias, then was 0.3dB short in record sensitivity, a perfectly acceptable figure.  Sony Metal XR 1992, however, required the fine bias control at its minimum and then showed a sensitivity of -1.4dB. Not so nice!

Relative to Dolby level MOL was +4.4dB and  +3.5dB for type I and II, but a very poor +0.4dB for type IV. Clearly some more effort was needed to make metal tape work on this deck. Putting 1n8 in parallel to C255 boosts high treble during recording type IV. Compensating this with higher bias (+3 on the AccuBias knob) then yields a flat(tish) response and MOL at +2.6dB. Acceptable, though clearly still underbiased. Not much can be done about this: higher treble peaking in the record equaliser would call for more bias to compensate, and with the limited range of AccuBias this would move the bias window for types I and II away from their sweet spot.

You will remember from before that the unmodified deck's saturation performance limited treble extension on the 0dB and -10dB curves, with -3dB already being reached well below 10kHz. With the modified record and playback equalisers this improved significantly, as can be seen in the following frequency sweeps (top to bottom UR, Metal XR, SXII):
























Finally it is time to have a look at Dolby HX. HX uses part of the Dolby B circuit (it cannot be operated on its own) for estimating the amount of treble in the incoming signal. This is then used to control a bias servo, alongside some dynamic equalisation. The aim is to reduce bias in the presence of strong music programme treble, thus avoiding saturation. Let's have a look at SXII with Dolby B, and then with Dolby B + HX (note that this is on the modified deck, already with improved saturation characteristics):


The Dolby B curves are remarkably flat, indicating excellent tracking. Adding Dolby HX then clearly extends the treble limits of the 0dB and -10dB curves, as intended, but also depresses treble by more than 1dB in a wide band starting from 4kHz, something unintended and audibly counterproductive. The same phenomenon was mentioned in High Fidelity magazine's review of the Harman Kardon HK-705 in August 1980. It is clear why Dolby Labs quickly abandoned the complex and costly HX in favour of Bang&Olufsen's HX Pro: it did not really work.

The output of the deck in play mode had some 50Hz/100Hz pollution in the left channel. Placing a thin shield of mu-metal between power transformer and tape mechanism knocked this down by 2dB or so, making both channels equal.  Playing without cassette, or equally a bulk-erased BASF Chromdioxid II, had playback noise at -52.5dB and -58.8dB(A) relative to Dolby level. The no-cassette A-weighted result is 6dB worse than the Nakamichi BX-300. Moreover, the large difference between unweighted and weighted noise levels indicates the presence of more than average low-frequency garbage.  This is not the quietest deck, and with the sub-optimal MOLs also not the most dynamic one. But let's not forget that it hails from 1981, when cassettes themselves were also much noisier than in the 1985-1994 period.

Sonically the TA-2060 is a bit lean, but it sounds detailed and clean in a friendly way, its character a bit like an LFD amplifier. As can be deduced from the low MOLs it does not like recording at high levels: +3dB really being the limit for type II, even less when the music is bass-heavy: 100Hz MOL is barely 0dB. The needle peak meters indicate pulses of 50ms duration or longer more or less correctly, but they under-read 10ms pulses by 3-4dB.




 



19 February 2022

Restoring and modifying a Rotel RD-870 cassette deck

As mentioned in my article on the Kenwood KX-880HX, the early and mid-80s saw a small number of 2-head decks from various manufacturers that were built around the '1C-DD' single-capstan version of the Sankyo direct-drive mechanism renowned for being used in the Nakamichi CR-7/5/4 ('2C-DD'). These decks were a curiosity in that they married a relatively high-end transport to a 2-head configuration, and not the usual 3 heads.

Truth be told, 2-head decks can be excellent, and e.g. Technics made quite a few fine direct-drive machines. The 2-head Nakamichis from the BX, CR, Cassette Deck, and DR-series also were rather good. These latter were based on the Sankyo single-capstan belt-drive mechanism ('1C-BD'). This raises the question if ever there was a Sankyo direct-drive machine that could compete with these Naks. Finding the answer is hard, because of the relative scarcity of these decks. But I was lucky: early in 2021 the rarest of them all, bar perhaps the little Kyocera, found its way to my door: the Rotel RD-870.

I picked it up from an elderly gentleman. Unable to wait I dropped it in my car's trunk and opened the cassette well. That head looked ... funny. Once at home I took a closer look and yes, the head was not the original sendust type, but a non-descript small-form permalloy one. A nasty surprise!


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is not much information on the 870 available, but the few pictures on the internet strongly suggest that it uses the same Canon head as the Nakamichi 2-headers. While I have a spare CR-2 transport in store, I deemed it unwise to sacrifice it. At any rate, its head has a bit of wear, whereas I wanted to give the Rotel the best possible chance to prove its mettle. I was lucky enough to source one of the last new old stock Nak-labelled heads on the planet.

If we take the Sankyo mechanisms of the late CR-era Nakamichis as a template (i.e. CR-1/2/3/4, 1988), then the one in the Rotel diverges somewhat. The reel drive is via gears instead of the older wear-prone rubber idler, making the transport 'late' in the evolution. Yet, the reel brakes are the rubber-tipped metal claws from the earliest versions. Both the gears and the brakes of my deck are as per the service manual, not later add-ons or modifications. Also curious is that there is no external device for back tension: uncontrolled tension is provided by a leaf spring at the bottom of the supply reel axle.

I believe that Onkyo was the original and earliest customer of the Sankyo family of transports: TA-2070 double-capstan direct-drive in 1981, TA-2055 single-capstan direct-drive in 1982. That same year the latter was also found in the Kenwood KX-880, Kyocera D-601 and Sansui D-370/570 (these with solenoid control instead of a cam motor), and the single-capstan belt-drive variant debuted in the Nakamichi BX-1. (I don't think anyone else ever used that same mechanism: Onkyo's belt-drive Sankyo-based machines used some plastic parts instead of the all-metal Nak versions.) The Rotel dates from much later again, 1986. Incidentally, the Sankyo brushless direct-drive capstan motor is also used in the TEAC V-1RX and V-900X!

Being direct drive, with gears, and without tension belt, the Rotel RD-870 is as rubber-less as can be and should be dependable as well as a doddle to service. And yet, I found wow&flutter inconsistent. It could be low, but it could just as well be high, especially towards the end of the tape: 0.075% and worse. Speed stability could be fine, or it could significantly slow down towards the end, accompanied with chaotically rising w&f.

Weeks of trying with various test tapes, disassembling, relubricating, and reassembling everything was to no avail. I changed R374 to a 10k trimmer (preset to 6k8), making reel torque adjustable as per Nakamichi practice, then setting it at 40 g.cm. I tried four different pinch rollers (two new, two used), on three different assemblies. In the end I replaced the back tension leaf spring with the coil spring arrangement from my spare CR-2: curiously, the Rotel had all the right holes already predrilled. This seemed to help somewhat. (The graphs were made before and after the modifications, using my TEAC MTT-211NA speed tape and WFGUI software.)

The deck also was incapable of playing a mirror tape: it skews at the roller, regardless of which roller or assembly, head present or head removed. It does play a homebrew inspection tape properly, though. (This is a cassette with most of the lower shell removed, but with but with all tape guides still in place.) With nothing left to replace and nothing to adjust I am at a loss as to the root cause of this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mounting the brand-new head was easy, just taking care to solder quickly enough to avoid damage to the coils. Replay level could easily be set (ANT L04 Dolby level tape). I checked frequency response using TEAC MTT-356 and Hanspeter Roth alignment cassettes (the latter are remarkably good and very affordable). After azimuth adjustment both were consistent with each other. The RD-870's response was essentially extended, but with the treble shelving down from 2kHz on.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In my view there are two acceptable ways of playing such reference tapes. Ideally the response is ruler-flat. Nakamichi took the view that the response must be rising above 10kHz with frequency; they had their reasons. This policy has always been controversial ('IEC 1981 or not'), but it has the undeniable advantage that it fights treble loss. And we all know that cassette loses treble whenever it gets a chance: azimuth error, Dolby mistracking, tape and head wear, .... Some brands took the opposite view, shelving down or rolling off replay treble. This was probably done to gain an unfair advantage in signal to noise ratio, or to provide brand lock-in.

Anyway: I bought the Rotel out of curiosity, but also to serve as replay deck for difficult, old, suspect, or worn tapes. This demands a good and neutral response. So even if I would have loved to restore the RD-870 to its original state, I was now forced to compensate that treble curve.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Similar to the Kenwood the Rotel has a 'bath tub' construction: the circuit board cannot be accessed without major disassembly. Luckily this is much easier than with the Kenwood. It suffices to remove the PCB's many screws, cut one ground wire, and fold the PCB out at the deck's front. Awkward, but workable. To protect the cosmetics I removed the front panel and knobs, and stuck styrofoam blocks to the front, aiding the deck in standing up during soldering jobs. Even so this arrangement is not conducive to repeated trial and error work, so I had to do all circuit mods in one go, and only then reassemble the deck and test the result.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In a first approach I worked on the main time constant of the replay amplifier, changing R105 and R106. (Incidentally, the service manual is full of errors. Beware!) Increasing these resistors over their initial 15k value brings up the midrange and treble. I then effectively added a Play Trim-like function by relegating the duties of R105/106 to a newly-made board with a 10k stereo pot and four resistors, as well as jumpers to disable the PT circuit when not wanted. To control the PT pot one would have to open the deck, but that is not an impediment to my intended use. (Curiously, there is a commercial precedent of a deck with internal-only Play Trim. I forgot which one, possibly Kenwood or Luxman ...)


This contraption worked well enough, but in the end it did not satisfy because, by the time Play Trim was turned up enough to compensate for any high treble loss, the midrange became unbearably bright.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A solution was found in adding an inverse treble shelf to the playback amplifier. This was done by putting 180R + 100nF in parallel each to R103 and R104. Thus I lifted the treble by ~1dB at 4kHz and 2.5dB at 10kHz. After this the improvised Play Trim subjectively worked better.

The first graph shows the response for both channels with Play Trim set to the minimum position. The highest treble is still rolled off, but the overall response is now quite flat over the bulk of the frequency range. (Ignore the treble loss in the left channel: this run was made with the last set of tones on the Roth tape, close to end of tape, where some skew is possible.) The second graph shows the right channel for three positions of the Play Trim knob.



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At this time the deck no longer could be considered a pure RD-870. But the mods can easily be undone, by plugging in two jumpers and by cutting two links from the top of the PCB. No disassembly required!

Back to the internal Play Trim. When facing the deck the replay amplifier sits right after the front-mounted Rec Balance and Bias Fine controls. These controls are two potmeters mounted on their own little PCB attached to the front panel. With the preamp that nearby it would be very feasible to redesign this little PCB, now to carry the Fine Bias pot and the add-on Play Trim circuit using the hole and knob of the Rec Balance control (which has little use in most circumstances anyway). This would be a very neat solution. Maybe in the future, should I decide to keep the deck ...

One curious aspect of the various Nakamichi decks that use the same sendust head is their lowish Maximum Output Level. I have seen 3-4dB over Dolby level for type I and II, and often less for type IV (where MOL normally would exceed the other types). I have to assume that Nakamichi deliberately underbiased in order to get a better treble response (without HXPro), with the customer expected to employ Dolby C in combination with low recording levels. Nakamichi's philosophy centered around classical music (much like Quad), so this seems to make sense. What we don't know is if that Canon head itself demanded such low levels (of bias and of music), or if in reality it could be pushed harder. This was another reason for me to try the Rotel, to get an alternative view on the same head.

But as said before, my pulling up the replay treble response moved the deck away from its initial design parameters, so we will never know for sure.

The rising playback treble has to be balanced with reducing recorded treble. This can be done by tuning (or rather: redesigning) the record equaliser for each tape type, or by increasing bias. The former is the correct approach, at least when standing bias has been selected judiciously, but it would be a lot more work than the latter.

Increasing bias initially did a fine job here, but when I came to metal type IV the treble could not be flattened: it kept rising, indicating significant underbiasing. The graph below is for 1992 Sony Metal XR, with the internal bias and the front-mounted Bias Fine both maxed-out. There is a 3 to 4dB lift at 20kHz!

Investigating I found two things. Like many other HX Pro-equipped decks the RD-870 uses the NEC uPC1297 IC for bias control. This chip takes as input the raw bias signal, the two music signals as fed to the recording head, and two static DC signals signifying the desired static bias level. The latter DC signals are controlled by the tape selector switches, the front-mounted Bias Fine knob, and the 3 x 2 internal bias trim resistors.

The internal type I and II trimmers correctly influenced the mean bias over their full range. But the type IV trimmers did not effect any change in the upper 60% of their travel. It appears that the Rotel's metal bias control sits above the saturation level of the HX Pro chip's voltage controlled amplifier. Moreover, where the service manual prescribes a +14.4V supply for the replay amp and the bias control, I found only 12.6V. Changing R302 and R303 brought this up to 14V and this then produced a little bit more bias signal from the uPC1297, but really not much. The HX Pro VCA saturating for metal type seems to be a design error. With no obvious way for boosting bias I had to give up on type IV.

The resulting record/play curves for type I and II are really quite flat and extended, considering the changes done to the replay side.


At 20dB below Dolby level (actually -19dB) type I has its -3dB point at 18kHz, and at Dolby level at 9.7kHz. For type II this is 20kHz and 10kHz, similar to a Nakamichi CR-2 and much better than the Kenwood KX-880HX and NAD 6100 Monitor I once had.

The 400Hz MOL figures are +5.2dB and +5.5dB, respectively, indicating excellent behaviour from the head, better than the Nakamichis. The deck's no-tape noise floor is -60.7dB(A). That is OK, but not fantastic, the result polluted by supply hum harmonics. The real-world noise with an old BASF single-layer chrome was -60.1dB(A). Thus with a decent ferro-cobalt tape and no Dolby a dynamic range around 62-63dB would be possible, really not bad.


As said before metal remains underbiased. The -19dB curve extends to 22kHz, the 0-dB curve to a ludicrously high 17.6kHz. Due to the low bias MOL is a poor +2.5dB. I don't know for sure, but I have a feeling that even in its native, non-modified state the 870's metal MOL would be low. Just as with the BX and CR Nakamichis.

There is only one set of internal record level trimmers, so compromises are necessary. I settled for aligning to 1994 Maxell UR, a tape with a sensitivity, see https://audiochrome.blogspot.com/2020/12/index-to-cassette-tape-measurements.html, close to the average of 80s-90s basic and premium ferrics, as well as the two IEC I references.

1987 TDK SA (itself close to the post-1987 IEC II reference) then gave +1dB offset, and 1992 Sony Metal XR +0.3dB. Both are acceptable values and still useable with Dolby NR. (If you wonder why the frequency plots are only starting at 200Hz, and not at 20Hz or so: this makes synchronising the https://www.audiotester.de/ measurement software easier.)


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Rotel is a fairly large deck. At 433 x 115 x 300 mm it dwarfs everything here except the CR-7. Its overall aspect is rather blunt and brutish, and not very elegant. It has only few features, and thus few controls, big controls at that. Being more spartan than even a Nak CR-1 there is no output volume control, no headphones output. A pity: headphones are handy for quickly checking the sound during repairs. Now I had to connect it to an amplifier whenever I wanted to listen. (There is no music system on my work table, but I have a TEAC AI-101DA 'bible amp' for grabs between the technical books on a nearby shelf. Of course I still have to grab it and wire it up to the DUT when needed.)

The door is a flat piece of hard glass-like plastic, screwed into the cassette well frame with two hex bolts. So you need a hex key whenever taking off the door for cleaning! The transport switches off when there is no tape in the well, but this can be fixed by wrapping sticky tape around one contact pole of the tape sensor switch.

The light bulb behind the beauty plate was broken. I replaced it with a green LED, its current set to 18mA by means of a 750R resistor in the positive supply line. This was not a success: the LED sits below a diffusor meant to spread the light into the tape well. The LED does not emit much light upwards, so the overall effect is barely visible in daylight, and that is even without a tape loaded. If you attempt such a mod consider a LED of higher power, and possibly a white LED.

The counter is outright daft. During winding or play it counts reel revolutions. During recording it counts in real time! Both counting modes are not correlated: zero in play mode is not the same as zero in recording mode. That is inconvenient, because doing tape alignment on a 2-head deck requires synchronisation of the recorded signal to the computer, calling for an accurate return-to-zero. With the Rotel this is provided by the absurd sequence {push zero, enter record-pause, push zero}. Even then the accuracy of the Rotel's counter is such that when returned to zero it is 5-10 seconds off the true initial position. (That may have to do with my operating the transport mechanism on top of the deck, exposed to incandescent light. For sure during the restoration the transport and counter behaved differently depending on which lights were on in the room!)


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The LED peak meters allow for even less adjustment than the Kenwood KX-880HX: none at all! The preset level for meter-zero appears to coincide more or less with Dolby level (215 nWb/m DIN = 200 nWb/m ANSI). There is a slight imbalance in my deck's meters, with left favoured over right. Luckily their granularity is a coarse 2dB around zero, so this is not too conspicuous with real music signals. The meters make recording on the selected tapes easy: just peaking at +4dB resulting in fine results both on type I and type II. I did not try type IV.

Conclusion

The Rotel RD-870 has its quirks, but even so it is a fine deck. Once the drooping replay response has been taken care of it is a worthy competitor for the various two-head Nakamichis, even though it is less versatile and a bit harder to use and maintain.