21 February 2018

restoring a TEAC V-1RX cassette deck (part 2: record distortion, alignment, mystery)





(This text was updated in August 2018.)

Despite being top model of the V-series, the V-1 has overly simple record alignment settings. Bias for metal is set via two variable capacitors, one for each channel. These capacitors pass more or less bias current from the oscillator to the head. The bias settings for type I and II are mono, and act on the oscillator's supply. There is some interaction: you have to align bias for type IV first, and only then for II and I. Further, there is only one set of left/right record level potmeters. All of this means that the deck can be set up properly (bias and level) for just one tape, and bias-only for two others. This does not bode well for Dolby compatibility ...

I intended to set bias for minimal distortion, and then, if necessary, adapt the record equalisation to obtain a flat-ish record/replay response, with a treble rising in accordance with the replay curve obtained in part 1 of this series.

Doing so I found it very hard to get third harmonic distortion low. Even at 200nWb/m (ANSI) there was 0.8% in the left channel, and some 1.2% in the right channel. Increased input levels quickly deteriorated the situation, 3% distortion being reached at 2dB over Dolby level. With metal tape!
A further curiosity was that there were also significant amounts of second harmonic distortion, which does not belong in tape recording.

Digging around on tapeheads revealed that circuit switching often was done with a special type of bipolar transistor. These so-called muting BJTs are more or less symmetrical, meaning that their collector and emitter roles can be swapped. Apparently it was not unusual at all that the control of such transistors was done wrong in cassette decks, leading to unnecessary low overload ceilings of the electronics. Strange, when doing it right does not cost more.
 

















The V-1 uses four such transistors to switch the record equalisation networks (Q106 and Q107 in the above diagram). Cutting the traces of their base leads and bridging them SMD-style with signal diodes (red in the diagram) brought the distortion down, now reaching 3% with metal tape at +6dB, and with type II tape at +4dB. Moreover, any trace of second harmonic distortion disappeared.

Following this a new attempt at setting the recording side was done. The results are below. While it was possible to get reasonably balanced and symmetrical traces for metal, type I and II showed high treble losses in the left channel. The mysterious thing here is the channel imbalance with I and II, while IV seems OK.
























During these measurements sometimes one or the other channel would get instable, with suckouts appearing periodically in the frequency response traces. I found that the deck does not erase very well. I reaches -30dB or so.  Presumably the suckouts were caused by recording a fresh sweep over an older measurement signal. I found no reason for the lacking erasure (maybe the head makes bad contact with the tape, to be investigated!).

Perhaps I had been a bit impatient, and was the deck simply not ready yet for the end game. From day one there had been intermittent problems with pots and switches. The pots were easy enough to fix, they are accessible, but it appeared very hard to get to the six push buttons for tape type and noise reduction. In the end I flipped the deck upside down and sprayed liberally Kontakt 60 over the switch board, operated the buttons a few tens of times, then let it dry for a day.










Next I spent some time polishing the heads with Brasso. They seemed spotless before I started, but positively shiny when I was done, with the (minor) wear path now for the first time visible (see picture, which reveals more than the naked eye or a loupe).  I also made a crude tape path checking cassette, and the V-1 played it perfectly (for reference, there was so much tape guidance removed from the shell that my A-550RX, with its smooth transport, has the tape derail within seconds). I measured wow& flutter with WFGUI and it was below 0.035% RMS weighted, an excellent result for a nearly 40 years old machine!

Back to the issue of biasing then. Remember that the metal bias level is set through two variable capacitors. Until now right bias always ended up at the maximum, and even then seemed short. Left bias was set much less. Worried by this apparent imbalance (if the head is OK then surely both channels need roughly the same bias), I measured the actual bias signals at the capacitor terminals. This showed that, for unknown reason (capacitor mismatch, different head load?) the right channel bias was 10% less than the left channel's, even with the alignment set to maximum. This obviously skewed the record frequency response (so far hidden by the redundant playback correction in the left channel) as well as the record level balance. I then tweaked the left bias capacitor until the signal to the head more or less matched the right channel. This would be my starting point for further alignment.

Considering that I would not likely use metal tapes for recording on the V-1RX (after all it can't hammer like a Nak!), I jumped straight to Maxell XLII (from 1994, the grey one), first using the shared type II bias potmeter, then tweaking the left bias capacitor for balance, followed with setting record levels for both channels. The results are below for different recording levels, no NR, Dolby B, and dbx.

(Note that all of this was done before I changed the playback equalisation from 130 us to 150 us. So in reality all curves have a bit more treble than shown here below.)
































































This seems very reasonable. Dolby tracking is nice, even though the highest treble is missing (yes, I removed the fixed MPX filters from the recording Dolby circuits). The dbx responses amplify any response error, as expected. Incidentally, the measured MOL (400Hz, 3% third harmonic) for this XLII after alignment was +4.5dB over Dolby level. Observe how little compression there is: the +6dB trace runs almost 6dB above the 0dB trace.










Type I was set for Maxell UR (1994). This entailed tweaking the one bias pot, and nothing done for levels. Even so the responses are nicely flat, with the expected channel imbalance in the high treble, and even with Dolby the results are useful. The +6dB trace is 2dB below its ideal level, there is compression indeed. The MOL was +2.7dB.


















Finally, with nothing left to tweak for metal tape, all I could do was put in a Sony Metal XR (1992) and verify the resulting responses, hoping for the best. Again the result was quite reasonable, bar the channel imbalance. The -20dB response runs to 19kHz or so, and at 0dB the -3dB point lies above 10kHz. The measured MOL was +6dB.

There was one remaining problem: a bit of hum pickup during replay. This was at 50Hz and odd harmonics, so probably radiated from the power transformer. I spent a lot of time looking for mu-metal to build a shield around the transformer. Eventually I found something interesting here: https://www.reichelt.de/magnetfeldabschirmfolie-mu-metall-ac-dc-aar-ms-f-p154826.html?, a thin sheet of 155 x 1000 mm.

For testing I cut off a strip of 60 x 155 mm, and put that as a wall between transformer and transport, in the already available space. This was the simplest of solutions, but it lowered the 50Hz component of the hum by a very audible 6dB.
 



I tried a second layer of mu-metal, touching the first one, but the measurement was not clearly showing any benefit. Maybe 1-2dB, not sure.
For the final solution I took two layers of mu-metal, each wrapped in isolating tape (avoiding any accidents in that close proximity to the transformer, mains wiring, and supply board), and with a grounding wire connecting each strip to the control board's ground. The metal strips were of course secured in place.


That's about it. Time to close the lid and label the patient ...


























04 February 2018

restoring a TEAC V-1RX cassette deck (part 1: transport repair and playback alignment)



(This text was revised in August 2018.)

One of the decks I lusted for in my early teens, but could only dream of, was the TEAC V-1RX. Having read on www.tapeheads.net that it is a good one, I stumbled over an ad for one in the Netherlands. Not cheap, but allegedly recently serviced with all new rubberware (or was it rubberwear?). I bit, and days later I was the proud owner of another ... problem case (photo above is not mine).

The V1-RX is unique in the single-number V series in that it is the only one with a direct drive (single capstan), and solenoid-less transport operation. Being DD not too much can go wrong with the mechanism, or so they say. There is one belt, for the control motor, and then two idler wheels for the tape reels. Upon testing my deck made awful howling noises inside, both while playing and while winding. Winding was slow, and playback was with a juddery takeup reel. Pots and switches were crackly. The dbx was totally malfunctioning. And here I was, thinking that this one would be a low-effort addition to the collection...

Upon opening I found the control belt in good health, but the idlers looked funny and clearly were impeded in their motion, or the idlers themselves where impeding the motion, that was not clear. There is no V-1RX service manual available on www.hifiengine.com, and its unique build make the manuals of its V-2,3,4 and 5RX siblings not very useful, but after long and hard looking I found that the transport section of the Tascam 122MkII was mostly identical. And see what is occasionally offered on ebay.fr!!! https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Idler-Tire-Belt-Rubber-Zwischenrad-Gummi-fur-TEAC-122MKII-Cassette-Tape-Deck/282833205599?hash=item41da2c395f:g:N~kAAOSwk~ZZ-KA~









There are a few forum threads that discuss repairing the V-1RX transport, so I won't go into total detail myself. Just visit http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/teac-v-1rx-two-questions.464953/, http://forum.vintage-audio-laser.com/resolution-pannes/remise-etat-une-platine-cassette-teac-1rx-t7708.html, and http://www.tapeheads.net/showthread.php?t=51930. The reel motor assembly with the idlers is removed easily: two screws and lifting out. No need to move the transport itself.


















The two idler tires I found in there were simply too large (see picture below), and were pushing against the motor axle and the reel hubs all the time. Small wonder this didn't work smoothly. Off with the old ones, on with the new ones. But wait ... this didn't go easy. After much finicking (don't let the small spring in the idler assembly jump free and fall into the cassette well, for instance ... yeah, I know) I had the tires on their small plastic wheels. But they were not sitting well there, with their run surfaces not quite parallel to the reel tables. Presumably the inner diameter of these tires was slightly too small, putting strain on them once mounted, causing deformation. I tried and tried, until I realised that if the plastic wheels broke during all this trying it would be game over for the deck. So I gave up and used the transport as is. This worked better than before, with reasonable winding and not too much noises. But far from silent.














A lot later I got fed up with this. Ordered a fresh set of 122MkII tires, only to find that they were actually quite obviously too small. The necessary dimensions are ID=13.5, OD=19, D=2.5 mm. What to do? Well ... I went back to the original oversized tires. I thinned them on a sheet of sanding paper to 2.4 mm, and I carefully reduced their OD to 20 mm. I heated them for a while in the sun, and then they went on easily. That made the transport much quieter. Wow & flutter, measured with TEAC MTT-211NA, was less than 0.035% weighted RMS. The best-performing transport in my harem.


In the meanwhile I had found a circuit diagram, now you can have it from HE: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/teac/v-1rx.shtml. I replaced most of the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply and in the audio circuits with my usual Panasonic FCs, Elna Silmics, or Nichicon Muse bipolars. Pots were sprayed, switches were worked tens or hundreds of times (the front panel switches are very hard to reach. Getting the front off is easy, getting it back on again is all but easy!) I also changed the power tranformer wiring from 220V to 240V. Euro has moved up to 230V, and the deck has some rare and hard to replace lamps running off AC, so these better receive the least stress possible. The pictures are from after the work was done. (Does anyone know why Japanese consumer electronics PCBs are always stuffed with all capacitors askew?)



Playback from the TEAC MTT-356 tape was a downer. 6dB of treble loss in the right channel, and 4dB left. I began to fear for a worn head, even though it looked OK, and wasn't even very dirty when it came in.


















I didn't try record/playback in this raw state, but opted for a crude alignment first. Contrary to all Nakamichis even this top-line TEAC is rather lacking in the alignment settings department. There is per channel variable capacitance for type IV bias, then a mono variable resistor for type II bias and one for type I bias. Bias for I and II are not independent: both derive from the type IV setting, so re-aligning metal forces you to always re-align I and II too!

I used a Sony Metal XR (1992) and set bias by minimising the distortion of a 400Hz 0dB (200nWb/m ANSI) tone. These are the resulting -20dB frequency responses, top without Dolby B, bottom with (ignore the legends, they are not related):






If you are coming from Nakamichi-straight then this is disappointing. The Dolby B curve is horrible.
The next plot is for a Maxell UR (1994). The good news is that it reaches 19kHz, allaying all fear of a worn head.
















What then of that significant treble loss on playback? The -2dB at 10kHz and -4 to -6dB at 14kHz actually match the calculated loss for a 10' azimuth error rather well:




















Recording test tones and white noise and playing them back on my Cassette Deck 1 with its azimuth control confirm that the TEAC's azimuth was indeed off a bit. I subsequently reset the azimuth, first with the  A.N.T.Audio 10kHz A100 tape (http://www.ant-audio.co.uk/index.php?cat=post&qry=alignment_tapes), then followed with fine tuning by means of the MTT-356's 12.5kHz section. For this I had to loosen the azimuth screw first, using nail polish remover. I used a non-magnetic screwdriver. After the operation I secured the screw again with bright-red nail polish.

What followed was a period of repeated measurements with the MTT-356, with a lot of frustration because of aberrant treble levels (today too high, tomorrow too low) and inexplicable channel imbalances. I tried adding capacitive loading to the head. I tried brute-force additional equalisation in the PB amplifier, all to no avail.

What did it in the end was a regime of cleaning and polishing the heads thoroughly, with Brasso and IPA, and then again. And then once more. That yielded this:
















Very acceptable. Left sitting below right in the bass is normal for a full track tape. The mids are a bit low overall, but this is probably not abnormal for a deck of that era. This could be redressed by slightly changing the main timeconstant in the PB amplifier, for both channels equally. As built this is 130 us, maybe 140 or 150 us would be a better choice. This can be done by substituting 14k or 15k for R105. (Note: theoretically it should be 120 us, but as heads are imperfect and have losses, it should be more than 120 in any real-life deck.)

I took 15k, ending with this playback curve:







TEAC V-1RX restoration Part 2